Last week when a colleague brought up the topic of Maha Kumbh Mela over lunch, it was quite surprising to see him know so much about this religious festival. Calling Kumbh a religious festival, actually, would be akin to calling Woodstock a music show. Kumbh Mela, whose literal translation would be 'festival of urn', urn symbolizing the elixir of life, is more of a religious phenomenon. It witnesses one of the largest, if not the largest, gathering of humans on the planet, who come together for a spiritual bathe in the sacred rivers of India.
With limited understanding of my own religion and mythology, I'm afraid I would do a rather ill job of expressing the importance or the emotions associated with Kumbh. Stating facts, such as, number of people who participated in the last Maha Kumbh Mela (2013), which at 120+ million is more than the combined population of the five largest states in US (viz. California, Texas, New York, Florida and Illinois) and nearly 1.5x the population of Germany (largest country in the European Union), would merely express its colossal scale.
However, having witnessed the Maha Kumbh Mela of 2013 in person, I do have my own impressions from the experience, which come rushing to mind at the mere mention of Kumbh. I remember seeing more people than I have ever seen gathered together in one place. People from all over India, rich and poor, huddled in masses, having walked miles with their luggage, their children and elderly, for being where they were in that moment. But not a hint of tiredness or exhaustion on their faces. Those who walked towards the sacred river, walked with a strange determination and drive in their step, and those who walked back, had a an even stranger look of calm on their face, which belied all the inconveniences they'd been to reach the Kumbh.
For me, it was probably the most overwhelming experience I've ever had. To the point where I almost forgot the camera on me which I had carried to capture some of these sights. Following are few images that I did manage to take.
To ensure smooth access to the river banks, the entire area is cordoned off for vehicles miles ahead. With no public transport options available, people, young and old, have to walk for miles before they even catch a glimpse of the holy river.
Its incredible how an entire new city comes alive on the banks of the river. The enormous logistical requirements are beyond compare. However, as a recent Harvard study points out, the organization of Kumbh was even better than Fifa.
From our vantage point we could see the horizon teeming with people.
Inside the main grounds one could catch glimpses of the holy mystical men with their otherworldly outlook.
Even as day gave way to the night, this was a city that was never meant to sleep. Tide after tide of devout people kept pouring into the holy waters, where the promise of elixir of life awaited them.
As for me it was finally time to head back home and re-collect my thoughts and try to understand what everyone else around me already seemed to know.
Special thanks to Vijayant Bist and his wonderful family, for extending a very warm welcome to a total stranger and making my trip a delight. And to Anurag Byas without whose camera none of this would have been possible.
